国产美妆的成功，到底做对了什么？

　　，日记背后从产品设计，到视觉营销的秘密武器 M I N T A K A

　　在很长一段时间里，中国美妆市场被如L'OREAL PARIS、LANCOME、Estee Lauder等国际品牌主导，但是这一切正发生着巨大的变化。

　　For a long time, the Chinese cosmetics market has been dominated by international brands such as L'OREAL PARIS、LANCOME and Estee Lauder. However, a great change is now taking place in this market.

　　2019天猫双11，交易金额疯狂上涨的24小时里，美妆个护领域以115.3%成为了增速最快的品类。彩妆前十销售榜单中，国产品牌占据2席，包括年轻的，日记和花西子。，日记PERFECT DIARY是当天，销‌售额破亿的美‌妆品牌，仅28分钟超出20‌18年双十一全天销售额，花西子亦一小时破亿。

　　In the 24 hours of the Tmall “Double 11 Festival” 2019 , the transaction amount rose sharply , and the beauty and personal care field became the fastest growing category with a 115.3% growth. In the top ten cosmetics sales list, there are 2 young Chinese brands which occupy 2 seats, Perfect Diary(，日记) and Florasis (花西子) .

　　至2019年末，腾讯出品的《2019国货美妆洞察报告》显示，国产品牌的市场份额已占中国美妆市场 56%。国产美妆品牌的成功，到底做对了什么?

　　PERFECT DIARY was the first beauty brand in “Double 11 Festival” whose sales reached 100 million CNY. Hanako also followed closely. At the end of 2019, Tencent's “2019 Domestic Beauty Brand Insight Report” showed that Chinese domestic brands accounted for 56% of the Chinese cosmetics market. What exactly are the key facts of the success for these brands?

　　新媒体的宠儿

　　The New Favorite in the New Media Age

　　李佳琦在2019年成为花西子，推荐官。李佳琦利用直播介入，贯穿花西子从预售到双十一全过程。而2019正是直播带货的风口，内容营销格局发生巨变。这印证了一个事情：谁能抢占新渠道，即有可能成为新国货赢家。

　　Li Jiaqi, Chinese ‘Lipstick King’ (He raised more than 1 billion CNY in sales on Singles’ Day), became the CPO(Chief Promotion Officer) of Florasis. Li used live broadcast to go through the whole promotion process of Florasis from pre-sale phase to the end of the ‘double eleven festival’. That has become a very popular way worldwide --- internet personalities promoting products to their fans and followers via broadcast. And this confirms one thing: whoever takes the best advantages of the new media channel wins.

　　事实上，中国头部美妆品牌大多诞生于2016年国内内容电商风口期，他们是天生的线上电商品牌。，日记、花西子、橘朵等都在此期间成立。他们快速进入新媒介，以低成本大量触及到用户，建立起品牌认知，在国际，缓慢反应期间占领市场，野蛮生长。

　　In fact, most of China's top beauty brands were born in 2016, and they are naturally ‘e-commercial’. Perfect Diary, Florasis, Orange Blossom and so on were established during this period. They quickly adapted to the new media, reached a large number of users at low cost, established brand recognition, occupied the market during the slow response of international big names, and grew wildly.

　　PERFECT DIARY，日记

　　花西子

　　COLORKEY珂拉琪

　　，日记是抢占先机的标杆。于2019年9月获得由高瓴资本领投、红杉中国华人文化跟投的，日记，估值达到10亿美元。这并不是，日记第一次获得投资，充足的资本背景让它得以在新渠道大势扩张。

　　Perfect Diary is the one of the early movers who perfectly grabbed the favorable business opportunities. In September 2019, the company completed a round of financing led by Gaoling Capital and Hongshan China with the cast. After that, the company was valued around 1 billion US Dollars. But it was not the first time Perfect Diary obtained investment. In fact, sufficient capital is the reason why this company could grow so aggressively in the new media channel.

　　2018年起，，日记在小红书上开始投放明星、头部及腰部KOL、素人笔记。截至2019年底，小红书上共有14万篇笔记，官方粉丝175万，远超其他国产美妆品牌。有了经验后，相同的方式被复制到抖音，让，日记在短视频领域获得优势。

　　Since 2018, Perfect Diary has been advertising on a popular application called Xiaohongshu(a social media and e-commerce platform). And apparently the effort has been paying off. Perfect Diary now has more than 1,750,000 followers and 140,000 notes on this app, which is nearly impossible for other opponents to catch up. After this first success, they used the same strategy on TikTok, giving the brand an advantage in video-sharing social networking platform.

　　这种抢占新渠道的本质是抢占年轻消费者。2019年618，在天猫00后国货粉丝占比中，，日记排名第二，第一和第三分别为华为和中国李宁。如今的年轻消费者并不认为贵就是好，他们更愿意为质感和个性化买单，购买商品背后的身份认同和圈层认同。在产品质感上，国内外品牌差距已不大。而在制造个性化，即品牌的差异化上，国产美妆正在积极探索。

　　The essence of this whole strategy is to seize the market of the young generation. Some data from Tmall 618 Festivals shows that Perfect Dairy has the second most fans in millennials, behind Huawei. Today’s young customers do not equate price with quality anymore. Instead of purchasing expensive luxuries，they are more willing to spend money on something with more texture and personalization, something they can identify themselves with, and something which can show the world who they really are. And in this respect, the gap between domestic and foreign brands is becoming much smaller. Companies like Perfect Dairy and Florasis are also actively exploring more ways to reflect more personality on their products.

　　差异化撬动溢价力

　　Differentiation Charges Price Premiums

　　BrandZ™数据显示，2018年对品牌溢价力的贡献中，差异化(与其它品牌不同)达到47%，有意义(恰到好处地满足消费者需求)相比14年的50%下降到45%，而突出性(迅速被想起)是8%。差异化在提升品牌价值中变得越来越重要。

　　BrandZ™’s data shows that in 2018, the most important factor of charging a price premium is differentiation(47%), followed closely by meaningfulness(45%, was 50% in 2014). Differentiation is becoming more and more crucial in promoting brands’ values.

　　独特有效的品牌视觉表达和传递是美妆护肤制造差异化关键之一,它让消费者清晰意识到购买产品能得到什么样的身份与圈层认同。Tom Ford美妆以，性感为记忆点，Serge Lutens复古迷人的广告女郎形象被时尚博主自主传播，而，日记则呈现的是不加掩饰的中性和张扬。

　　Being unique and effective on visual expression and transmission is one of the main keys to make ‘differences’. It makes customers clearly aware of what he/she will become/gain after purchasing the product. For instance, Tom Ford is rememberd by its extreme sexiness，Serge Lutens’s charming and retro ad girls are loved by fashion bloggers, while Perfect Dairy presents undisguised neutrality and unlimited beauty.

　　Tom Ford美妆广告

　　PERFECT DIARY，日记粉底液

　　，日记曾联名Discovery，推出探险家十二色动物眼影盘。发售当日即，，2019双十一当天销售额超过了天猫眼影总销售额的三分之一。从产品设计，到投放的视觉广告。，日记做到了非常有意思的视觉传达：中性，力量，独立。虽然，日记也利用了大量网红气质的KOL来作为自己的宣传口碑带货的渠道，但是在品牌视觉这个层面，，日记的标准一开始就是国际，的标准。他们把能外包的工作，都外包完成，换取了发展的速度和品牌的高度，从一众小厂当中，脱颖而出。

　　Perfect Dairy once co-branded Discovery and released the Explore Eyeshadow Palette. And they were sold out before the release date ended. The sales of this product on ‘Double Eleven’ in 2019 exceeded one-third of the total sales of Tmall Eye Shadow. From product design to visual advertising, Perfect Dairy can always transmit its messages to its costumers: neutrality, strength, and independence. Though the company also uses a lot of KOL(Key Opinion Leader) to promote its products, the standard of its own brand vision is always high. They outsource everything which is ‘outsource-able’ just in exchange for the speed and scale of development. And it helps them reach a new height.

　　这个系列眼影的视觉物料和广告TVC由PERFECT DIARY，日记和国内的视频团队MINTAKA合作完成，这个团队就是，日记背后从产品设计，到视觉营销众多秘密武器之一。

　　The visual materials and advertising TVC of this series of eye shadows are completed by PERFECT DIARY and the domestic video team MINTAKA . You cannot continue to talk about how great those videos are without mentioning this team. From product design to visual marketing, MINTAKA is also one secret weapon of Perfect Dairy.

　　，日记DISCO礼盒广告

　　MINTAKA与，日记合作的广告大部分延续了这种强烈个性，为女性“造梦”。在DISCO礼盒广告中，模特在80年代舞厅跳着电影《低俗小说》的舞蹈。

　　Most of the advertisements that MINTAKA cooperates with Perfect Diary show this strong personality which “build dreams” for women. In the DISCO gift box advertisement , the model performs the classic "Pulp Fiction" dance in the ballroom.

　　PREFECT DIARY，日记复古眼影盘

　　在暗夜鎏光高光粉饼广告中，星尘里巨大的希腊神话式置景及雅典娜概念的展现，都打破彩妆视觉定式。

　　In the advertisement of the Aurora Translucent Highlighter, both the huge Greek mythological setting in the cosmic stardust and the display of the concept of Athena break the visual stereotypes of cosmetic.

　　PREFECT DIARY，日记星河高光

　　但这种记忆符号需要基于品牌基因所定制。花西子，自身拥有强烈的中式美学视觉体系。无论是爆款口红上的中式雕花，还是融入西湖之景的鞠婧祎散粉广告，全部汲取中国古典之美，服从于品牌形象，形成记忆符号扎根于消费者。花西子的这条广告TVC，也是由MINTAKA制作完成。

　　But this memory symbol needs to be customized based on brand genes. Florasis has a strong Chinese aesthetic visual system. Both the most popular lipstick and the loose powder into which Chinese traditional elements, West Lake, are integrated, are inspired by Chinese classical beauty. In the end they serve the brand image, and plant a symbol rooted in the memory of the consumers. This Florasis ad TVC was also produced by MINTAKA.

　　创意视觉制造的价值

　　The Increasing Value of Creative Vision

　　36氪的2019年末品牌偏好调查显示，年轻消费者选择品牌时最在意性价比、质量和视觉设计。越年轻，在意视觉体验的比例越高。产品之外的创意性视觉是头部国产美妆的投入，之一。以此制造的话题，更能增加品牌知名度，为溢价加码。

　　36 Krypton's 2019 brand preference survey shows that young consumers are most concerned about cost performance, quality and visual design when choosing a brand. The younger you are, the more you care about the visual experience. Creative vision beyond of the product is one of the key points domestic brands have always been focusing on. Topics created in this way can increase brand awareness and charge the price premium.

　　朱正廷成为，日记唇妆代言人。尽管男性艺人与彩妆结合将趋于常态，但当时的视觉冲击还是有别于传统认知，带来不止于粉丝群体，更有大众群体的参与讨论。朱正廷所涂抹的唇膏毫无悬念成为爆款。

　　Zhu Zhengting(a Chinese singer and actor) became the spokesperson for the perfect diary lip makeup. Although the combination of male artists and make-up will tend to be the norm, the visual impact at that time was quite massive, since it was different from traditional Chinese cognition, bringing not only fan groups, but also public groups to participate in the discussion. The lipstick that Zhu Zhengting applied without any suspense became one of the most popular products of that year.

　　PERFECT DIARY，日记 朱正廷玻璃唇釉

　　2019年，大都会艺术博物馆慈善晚宴(Met Gala)将坎普作为主题，邀请全球时尚明星名人穿此风格服装出席。国内如品牌集合店Play Lounge等提前反应，顺势推出他们所理解的中式坎普服装。，日记直接与大都会艺术博物馆推出联名眼影盘，与MINTAKA创意团队将极富戏剧性的坎普风拍入广告。而这些创新与尝试都在为品牌价值加分。

　　In 2019, the Metropolitan Museum of Art Charity Dinner (Met Gala) used ‘Camp’ as the theme and invite fashion celebrities from around the world to wear this style of clothing to attend. Domestic brands such as the brand collection store Play Lounge responded in advance and launched their Chinese-style Camp apparel. Perfect Diary launched a co-branded eyeshadow palette directly with the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Meanwhile they worked with the creative team of MINTAKA and put the extremely dramatic Camp style into the advertisement. And these innovations and attempts are beneficial to its brand value.

　　PERFECT DIARY，日记小金钻口红

　　从世界工厂，到C-BEAUTY

　　From ‘The World’s Factory’ to ‘C-BEAUTY

　　2019国内经济放缓，中国美妆逆势上涨。2020年的市场正经受新冠疫情的挑战，根据各大品牌第一季度的财报来看，一股寒流将不可避免的影响整年的行业发展，加速国内美妆行业的整合。

　　In 2019, the domestic economy slowed down, but Chinese cosmetics market rose against the trend. The market in 2020 is being challenged by the COVID-19. According to the first quarter financial reports of major brands, the slowdown will inevitably affect the industry development throughout the year and accelerate the integration process of the domestic beauty industry.

　　国产美妆品牌是否培养了消费者足够的忠诚度?腾讯广告TMI腾讯营销洞察携手波士顿咨询联合发布的《2020 中国“社交零售”白皮书》指出：社交零售中，只有19%的消费者忠于品牌。并且博主中流行着这么一个词：“平替”，即贵价商品的平价代替。

　　But have domestic beauty brands cultivated enough loyalty among consumers? 2020 China " Social Retail " White Paper released by Tencent Marketing Insights and Boston Consulting jointly pointed out that in social retail, only 19% of consumers are loyal to the brand. And there is such a popular word among fashion bloggers: "Parity replacement", that is, parity replacement of expensive products.

　　李佳琦曾在直播中一半嘴涂国际，口红，另一半涂国产口红，显示质地、色号可完全代替，女孩们却依旧觉得自己缺一支Armani或YSL。品牌如L'OREAL PARIS、Estee Lauder，历史故事和品牌力都难以复制，国产美妆应建立其他优势应对。通过视觉创造的美，增加品牌附加价值，将继续是赢得竞争的重要一环。

　　Li Jiaqi once, in his live broadcast, smeared international lipsticks on half of his lips and domestic lipsticks on his other half, showing that the texture and color number can be completely replaced. However, there are still plenty of girls feeling that they lack/need an Armani or YSL. Brands such as Estee Lauder, L’Oréal, have historical stories and brand power which are difficult to copy. So domestic cosmetic brands should try to establish other advantages. The beauty created through vision will add more value to their brand and eventually be an important part of winning the competition.

　　从全球来看，欧美系、韩系、日系美妆有着明显的视觉趋向，并因此产生持续性的巨大经济效益，在过去代表着发达国家文化的审美取向，时尚和审美甚至可以说是一种文化上的权利。那么国产美妆，甚至推而广之以美为核心概念的国产品牌，能否形成一种中系“C-BEAUTY”?中国是成熟的世界美妆产品代工厂，却长时间被迫忽略了中系视觉力量的塑造可能，以及当中可创造的经济附加，然而这种状况，在急速的发生着变化，因为市场，对美有了更高的需求。

　　Globally, European, Korean, Japanese cosmetic also gradually focus more on vision creativity on their brand, and therefore sustainably generate huge economic benefits. In the past the aesthetic and fashion standard of the developed countries could even be regarded as Cultural rights and cultural outputs. So, the question here is: Can domestic cosmetic products or brands create and popularize our own "C-BEAUTY "? China is a mature factory of cosmetic products in the world, and we for a long time has been ignoring the possibility of shaping the Chinese visual power and meanwhile losing the economic surplus it could’ve created. The United States has a higher demand. But now a great change is taking place in this market.

　　PERFECT DIARY，日记星河眼影

　　要形成“C-BEAUTY”，单靠品牌自身无法完成。在中国时尚领域，以海归派设计师、造型师、摄影师等为主的时尚从业者已让这种视觉感受初有雏形。他们同样拢聚在像MINTAKA这样的“混血”团队。这些意见，，在打造更符合市场需求的视觉体验的同时，未来也必将在有意无意中，让“C-BEAUTY”成型于混沌。这是一个中国站上世界舞台，的时代，他必然要得体。

　　To create " C-BEAUTY ", the brands alone cannot make it. In the field of Chinese fashion, fashion practitioners mainly composed of returned designers, stylists, photographers, etc. have given this visual experience a preliminary shape. They love gathering together in a "mixed" team like MINTAKA. These leaders, while creating a visual experience that meets more with the needs of the market, will surely lead ‘C-BEAUTY’ to a bright future.

　　国际品牌如MAC便早早顺应本土市场，与中国创意团队，华裔艺术家合作。国内美妆品牌亦如此，当利用好创意人才，寻找出自身适用的本土玩法走在前头，才可继续逆势而为。

　　International brands such as MAC adapted to the local market long time ago. They chose to cooperate with Chinese creative teams and artists. So should our domestic brands. Make the best use of creative talents, find out what is best for them, and they can continue to forge ahead. This is an era in which China stands at the center of the world stage, and he must be decent.

　　PERFECT DIARY，日记水光唇釉&MINTAKA